By Martha Rosenberg
Americans’ love affair with snacks is growing– along with their
waistlines: the ubiquity of junk food, the ubiquity of junk food
advertising, and stealth food technology. People who polish off a whole
bag of chips or cookies at one sitting (usually in front of TV) are
often doing exactly what the product was designed to do–be addictive.
Have you noticed the overpowering something-in-the-oven smell that wafts
up when you walk past a Subway? Mark Christiano, Subway’s Global Baking
Technologist, insists the aroma is not pumped outside to entice
passers-by and adds that the bread recipe is “proprietary.” But in the
war for your food dollar, all tactics are clearly on the table including
the way a food smells, looks, and feels in the mouth. Nothing is left
up to chance.
“Food technologists” use $40,000 devices that simulate a chewing mouth
to test and perfect chips, for example. “People like a chip that snaps
with about four pounds of pressure per square inch,” says Michael Moss,
author of Salt Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us so technologists
seek “the perfect break point.”
Fat is a big part of the food technology stagecraft too because it
promotes crunch, creaminess and contrast, blends flavors and even
lubricates mouthfuls so that people eat faster. And, speaking of fast
eating, people who wolf down their food do not entirely have themselves
to blame–the actual time it takes to chew food has shrunk. “In the [45
years] that I have been in the food business, we used to have foods that
we chewed 15 times and 20 times and 30 times before we swallowed,” says
Gail Vance Civille, of the consumer research firm Sensory Spectrum. Now
most foods only have to be chewed 12 times and “you’re in for the next
hit to get more pleasure, says Civille.
"starch is actually absorbed more quickly than sugar, which causes
glucose levels in the blood to spike and the body to yell “more!”
Of course sugar, salt and fat themselves can be addictive as Häagen-Dazs
or Krispy Kreme junkies can attest, but food technologists have a clear
equation for designing hyper-rewarding, hyper-palatable foods. They
fabricate “complex formulas that pique the taste buds enough to be
alluring but don’t have a distinct, overriding single flavor that tells
the brain to stop eating,” says Moss.
1. Soft Drinks
Half of Americans drink a soft drink every day and many people say they
are addicted. This is not an accident. To create Cherry Vanilla Dr
Pepper, for example, food technologists tested 3,904 “tastings” or
versions for “dryness,” “gumminess,” and “moisture release,” the right
mix of cherry, vanilla and Dr Pepper flavoring and of course color.
Of course caffeine is one reason people get hooked on soft drinks.
Constant exposure to caffeine makes your brain compensate by decreasing
the number of receptors for its own “stimulant,” norepinephrine, which
makes you seek the stimulation from an outside source. But
there are other probable “addictors” as seen in Mountain Dew, arguably
the most addictive of the soft drinks (including among some gamers who
reportedly drink it nonstop). While Dew certainly packs a lot of
caffeine, it derives its fizzy bite from phosphoric, citric, malic and
tartaric acids, all kept afloat by a controversial additive known as BVO
or brominated vegetable oil.
Beverage companies are starting to
drop BVO, which the public has turned against because it is also a
flame retardant. But Dew will likely keep its bite.
2. Cured Meats
Even people who would give wide berth to a Slim Jim or Kentucky cured
ham have been swept up in the Bacon Everywhere movement with bacon added
to everything from gum and candy to ice cream. Unfortunately the bacon
flavor everyone loves is created by ingredients no one loves–nitrites.
Sodium
nitrite, also found in ham, pastrami, salami hot dogs and sausages,
inhibits bacteria, lengthens shelf life and imparts the pleasing taste
and color that add to these foods’ appeal. But, and it is a big but,
during the process of cooking, nitrites combine with other chemicals to
form carcinogens which many health organizations warn against.
Can’t bacon be made without nitrites? Yes and no. “America’s Test
Kitchen had the results of their bacon testing and they disliked the
nitrite free sample because it was too pale and didn’t taste like
bacon,” says one post on the web site chowhound. “Nitrates add plenty to
flavor. You’ll find bacon producers who attest to that all over
Google,” says another post. The New York Times food writer R.W. Apple
himself states that
“nitrates provide some of the characteristic
bacon flavor, and the only nitrite-free bacon I have sampled tasted
more like roast pork,” defending the safety profile of the chemicals. The
web site Livestrong agrees that nitrites “give cured meats that
characteristic smoky flavor and pink color that make them irresistible,”
but suggests that people limit their intake and “have a salad” instead.
3. Microwave Popcorn
Have you ever tried to surreptitiously make yourself a microwave popcorn at work and found it is impossible to disguise?
Microwave
popcorn sends off an immediate olfactory alarm to everyone on your
floor and probably the floors above and below you. Not only do they know
you are not working but snacking they want some microwave popcorn too.
The irresistible smell is from the butter flavoring chemicals like
diacetyl and Pentanedione which are dissipated into the air by the
heating process. And, not surprisingly, there are questions about their
safety. While lawsuits have been brought and won by workers in microwave
popcorn manufacturing plants who developed “popcorn lung” from working
around diacetyl, consumers are also apparently at risk.
Two
years ago, Wayne Watson was awarded $7 million when he sued the
manufacturer and retailers of microwave buttered popcorn that caused him
to develop “popcorn lung” after eating two bags daily for 10 years. The
potentially fatal respiratory disease is usually a condition called
constrictive bronchiolitis obliterans in which the smallest airways of
the lung become scarred and constricted, blocking off movement of air.
Since diacetyl concerns have been raised, many manufacturers have
dropped the ingredient. Some still use the potentially harmful slippery
nonstick surface coating PFOA on the popcorn bags, however–another
reason to “resist” microwave popcorn and make your own. Especially if
you are eating it twice a day like Watson.
4. Salty, Roasted Snacks
Like sugar, people can become addicted to salt and the only way to
“kick,” say experts, is to go cold turkey and let your taste buds return
to normal. But there is another reason that salty snacks like
potato chips, French fries, toasted crisp breads and even non-salty
roasted breakfast cereals can be irresistible. These foods have
undergone the “Maillard reaction,” explains New York University food
expert Marion Nestle which “causes baked, fried, and toasted foods to
turn attractively brown and taste yummy.” Cooking carbohydrate-rich
foods at temperatures high enough to produce a yellow or brown surface
usually means that acrylamide has formed. And, you guessed it,
acrylamide is a cancer-causing and potentially dangerous chemical. Once
again, the chemicals that make food irresistible are the ones we should
resist. The state of California actually sued potato chip makers for
failing to warn California consumers about the health risks of
acrylamide in 2005.
There is something else that makes us crave salty snacks, They are
designed to have “vanishing caloric density” or the ability to melt in
the mouth, writes Michael Moss. “If something melts down quickly, your
brain thinks that there’s no calories in it . . . you can just keep
eating it forever,” food scientist Steven Witherly tells him during an
interview for his book.
Potato chips have another hook, say food experts. Their coating of salt,
fat and sugar found in the starch of the potato itself reward the brain
in a triple punch. The starch is actually absorbed more quickly than
sugar, which causes glucose levels in the blood to spike and the body to
yell “more!” A New England Journal of Medicine study of 120,877 women
and men found the most weight-inducing food they ate was potato chips.
5. All Fast Food
Fast food, of course, is predicated on cravings and addictions. Why else
would it last–including drive-through windows? Why else would its
overriding features be salt, fat and sugar? Eighty-three percent of
people who eat outside of their home do so because of “cravings” a
recent study revealed and 75 percent who visit restaurants more than
once a week do so for a specific dish they crave.
While McDonald’s has never been toppled from the number one burger
position that Wendy’s, Burger King, Carl’s Jr, Jack in the Box and
Hardee’s crave, its Chicken McNuggets opened it up to fast food chicken
lovers and were also an instant success.
Unfortunately,
McNuggets are probably the McDonald’s item with the most problematical
chemicals. They are made with dimethylpolysiloxane, an anti-foaming
agent used in, believe it or not yoga mats, propylene glycol, an
antifreeze ingredient and autolyzed yeast extract which “artificially
enhance[s] the taste and craveability of food,” says Healthy Living.
Clearly, sweet, salty and fatty foods can be hard to resist, especially
when they are ubiquitous, cheap, marketed around the clock and fast. But
just to be on the safe side, Big Food has also added addictive
chemicals to amp up the “irresistibility.”
Have You Ever Noticed That You Can't Stop Eating These Foods?